POBEDA PEAK
 Pobeda (Victory)
Peak (7439 m.) - the highest summit of the snowcovered wall, streching
for nearly 30 km. Along the Kokshaal-Tau ridge (Central Tien-Shan),
the scesline of which is coming at the height of 6000 m. Between Khan-Tengri
and Pobeda summits (20 km.) there is on of the longest glaciers in
the world, Yuzhny Inylchek (it's length exeeds 60 km.). Pobeda Peak
is the most northern seven-thousander on earth. This mountain is coivered
with amounts of ice and its slopes are covered with snow. Strong winds
challengwe mountaneers and raise snowstotms even in good weather.
Experienced mountaineers affirm that the ascent to Pobeda Peak can
be compared with conquest if Himalaya's peaks.
Historical background
In 1932 – the Ukraine expedition under the leadership of R.M.Demchenko
saw the enormous unknown nameless peak.
In 1936 – Mountain climbers from Moscow under the leadership of
E.Abalakov ascended to Khan-Tengry and saw another peak raised to
the clouds.
In 1943 – Topographical expedition under the leadership of P.Ropasov
judged a height of the unknown peak 7439m, it was called Pobeda
in 1946.
1938 – the first attempt of ascent (A.Gutman, E.Ivanov, A.Sodorenko),
they reached the point of 6930 m.
1956 – the first ascent (the leader E.Abalakov), there were – Y.Arkin,
P.Budanov, N.Gusok, V.Kizel, K.Kletsko, I.Leonov, S.Musaev, U.Tur,
U.Usenov, A.Filimonov. The expedition was organized well; a caravan
of 60 horses delivered the equipment along Inylchek glacier. In
the intermediate camps I-4700m, II-5300m, III-5800m, IV-6200m large
snowy caves were dig out (for example there were 17 mountain climbers
in the camp II). The ascent was in difficult conditions (snow-storm,
fog, stormy wind). The group reached the camp V-6500.
26.08 – a cave at 7000m (camp VI) was dig out. The members have
been waiting for a good weather for 2 days and
30.08 - 11 mountain climbers reached the top. It’s one of the most
prominent events in the world mountain climbing. Ascending routes:
The first mountaineers conquered in 1938 the formerly unknown peak.
There are some difficult routes on the top - on the center of northern
slop, on the eastern crest from Chon-Teren pass and along the most
safe way - over west Pobeda (Vazja Pshavela) from the Diky pass
(start from Zvesdochka glacier icefall 4500 m., altitude difference
about 3 km. Icefall and northern ridge of West Pobeda (6918 m.)
long travels of the western crest (4 km.) at an altitude 7000 m.
During the day you should reach the summit and return to the West
Pobeda snowcave camp.
Iitinerary:
| Day
1-2 |
Arrive in Bishkek (Almaty, Tashkent).
Transfer to Bishkek. Trip to Karakol (400 km). Overnight on
the shore of the Issyk-Kul Lake. Chalet (1600m). |
| Day 3 |
Trip to Inylchek base (200 km), located in the valley of Inylchek
river (alt- 2500m.) |
| Day 4 |
Acclimatization |
| Day 5 |
Flight (45 min) to the high-altitude base Inylchek (alt-4100m). |
| Day 6 |
Medical examination, route consultation,
preparation for the ascent. |
| Day 7 |
You are offered a classical route along the northern ridge.
Traverse Zvezdochka Glacier towards Pobeda peak; in 8 km near
the foothill of the slope, pitch camp 1 . |
| Day 8 |
Climb (along the slope) towards a rocky
ridge - mark 5100 m. Camp 2. |
|
