LENIN PEAK
Lenin
Peak (7,134m), one of the highest summits of the Pamirs, is located
in the middle of the Zaalaiski ridge and administratively belongs
to the Chon-alaisky district of the Osh region. Kyrgyzstan. Lenin
Peak includes a large body of ice and snow. stretching from the Krylenko
Pass (5,820m) in the east to Razdelnaya mountain (6,148m) in the west.
A lot of glaciers move down the northern and southern slopes of Lenin
Peak . The largest are Lenin Glacier (length 13.5 km., area 55.3 km2)
and Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier (the length 20.6 km, area 23.5 km2).
Numerous tributaries of the Kyzylsu River, the main river of the Alaiskaya
valley, originate from the northern glaciers of Lenin Peak. The summit
of Lenin Peak towers 3000m. over the amphitheater of the Lenin Glacier.
The northern and southern slopes, jagged with deep fissures (up to
100 m), are 45' - 50' steep. Avalanches and snow slides are frequent
on the slopes of Lenin Peak. The snow line of the northern slope is
4200 - 4500 m. high, while on the southern slope 4800 - 5400 m. high.
Climate varies from moderate at the foot, on the Alaiskaya valley,
to arctic at high altitudes. Gale-force winds are frequent at the
summit.
Approaches. Osh is the nearest city from which expeditions to Lenin
Peak begin. Then new travel along the Pamir road, across Taldyk
Pass (3550 above sea level) to the Alaiskaya valley, using cross-country
vehicles. The tour goes further from the settlement of Sary-Tash
across the Kyzylsu river, up its tributary, the Achik-Tash River,
to the edelweiss glade, where camps are usually set up. You can
move 5 km. more to the Lukovaya glade, after which all travel is
on foot. Generally, from Osh to the camp takes about 8-10 hours.
The camp can also be reached by helicopter from Osh (40 minute flight)
or Tashkent (2- hour-and-30 minute flight). For the last two years,
however this way has not been used due to the high cost of the flight.

Tourism potential of the region. In addition to Lenin Peak, the
Zaalaiskiy Ridge has a great number of summits over 6000m. high,
which are of interest to both experienced mountaineers and beginners.
Like Lenin Peak, they are characterized by their accessibility.
The Kyzyl-Agyn summit (6683 m), the Latviya and Estoniya summits
(6211 m and 6282 m), the Yedinstva summit (6673 m), the Spartak
summit (6183 m), the Dzerzhinski summit (6713 m) and the Krasin
summit (5998 m) are of interest of expeditions in the area of large
glaciers Korzhenevski and Koman. Trekking is also possible. The
Alaiskaya valley in itself is also interesting for tourists. Blocked
by the Alay and Zaalaiskiy ridge0 the valley stretches 135 km long
and 8-22km wide. The average height of the valley is 3000m. During
the Soviet era, some 1 million head of cattle were kept here. People
living in the Alaiskaya valley still live a simple life style. Keeping
to the nomadic traditions. Tourists can enter the yurta of a chaban
(shepherd), have a cap of tea or airan (local yogurt) with flat
cakes.
Iitinerary:
| Day
1 |
Arrival in Tashkent |
| Day 2 |
Transfer to Osh. Hotel. |
| Day 3 |
Drawing up entry papers. Transfer to Achik-Tash.
Base camp on the Loukovaya Glade at the height of 3800m. |
| Day 4 |
Preparation for the passage to the high-mountainous zone. |
| Day 5 |
All day on the glacier. |
| Day 6-17 |
Ascent to the Lenin Peak. |
| Day 18 |
Return to the Lukovaya Glade. |
| Day 19 |
Relaxation. |
| Day 20 |
Transfer to Osh. Hotel. |
| Day 21 |
Transfer to Tashkent. Hotel. |
| Day 22 |
Departure from Tashkent. |
The tactic of ascent.
| Day
5 |
Base camp. Over the Puteshestvinniko
Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours on a good
mountain path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. |
| Day 6 |
Descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. There are
a possibility of landslides and rock-falls for breaking on some
parts of the path. Time: 30-40 minutes. The river must be crossed
carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the
river rises rapidly throughout at this time. |
| Day 7 |
Across the left moraine of glacier to the
Lenin glacier (4100m). Total time: 1-1,5 hour. |
| Day 8 |
Walk to camp 1 (4200 m). (1.5 - 2.5 hours.) |
| Day 9 |
Along the Lenin glacier up to beginning
of slope. Total time: 1-2 hours. Many small crevasses. If there
is a lot of snow ropes my be needed. Final height - 5000m. |
| Day 10 |
Ascent of sleep snow/ice slope in crampons. Fixed rope ascent
(100 vertical meters, 40 -45 degrees). This slope then flattens
out. Wide crevasses. Aluminum/rope ladders and fixed ropes may
be required. Total time: 2-3 hours. Final height - 5100m. |
| Day 11 |
Travers around slope onto the platea, where
Camp 2 is situated. Big crevasses. The camp is situated on the
scree slope. Total time: 1 - 2 hours. We recommend that ropes
should be used throughout this section. |
| Day 12 |
From camp 2 to the ridge. Steep slope. If there is not much
snow there may be a problemm with crevasses. Total time: 1 -
2.5 hours. Strong winds on the ridge are possible. |
| Day 13 |
Along the ridge towards to the ,,Razdelnaya"
Peak (6200 m). Strong winds, deep snow travers of the summit
to the left (sleep slope up to 50 degrees). In case of the bad
weather - over the summit. Total time: 2- 4 hours. Camp 3 (6100m)
is situated on the saddle. There are often strong winds, especially
at night. |
| Day 14 |
Steep/ice/rock slope. Total time: 1,2 -3 hours.. |
| Day 15 |
Along narrow ridge to the ..Nosh".
No ropes needed. "Nosh" is a steep ice ridge with
fixed ropes. Total time: 1.5-3 hours. Be wary of strong gusts
of wind. |
| Day 16 |
Along easy rocky ridge to plateau (6900 - 7000m). Possibly
deep snow. Total time: 2- 3.5 hours. |
| Day 17-18 |
Descent along the same route. The descent
takes 2-3 times less of ascent time. |
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