Communism Peak

Historical background
In 1933 year the Soviet Academy of Science organized Tadjik-Pamir expedition where 215 members of scientific body and about 400 assistants took part. Both with scientific purposes, the sport aim, to ascend the highest point of the country Stalin Peak (Communism Peak), was put up for them.
On 24 July having come to the Bivachniy glacier, the group of mountaineers started their route.
On 30 July N. Nikolaev, a mountaineer, died. He fell down from the rock. In some days D.Iralle, a porter, died because of pneumonia. But in spite of it, the ascent was going on.
On 22 August six mountaineers headed by Gorbunov, went for the final storm of the summit.
Three mountaineers quit the ascent on the point 6900 m., as they had no strength left. N. Gorbunov, E. Abalakov and A. Chetye continued the ascent.
On 01 September the snow tempest began. The tempest continued for some days. A. Chetye went ill. For 2 persons they had just a can of canned food and a bar of chocolate.
On 03 September the weather became better and A. Gorbunov with Abalakov decided to climb the top. On the altitude 7380 m. N. Gorbunov couldn’t go further due to hard frostbitten foots. Abalakov continued to ascend alone. Having reach the top, made a tur he descended to Nikolay Gorbunov and then to Cgetye, and they all together continued the descent.

Iitinerary:

Short description of ascent to the Somoni Peak.

Base camp - Mt. Somoni (Communism) Peak. Trek up Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope. (4 - 5 hrs). Camp (5300 ms). Going up on the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier opposite to ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross the ice plateau in the first part of the day and with maximum speed. The further way goes on the rocks with ascent to the crest. Time of going is about 6-7 hours.

Camp (5300 ms) - Camp (5800 ms). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). Technically, the whole part of the way is not difficult. Wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The ropes are fastened in the ice - places. The camp is located in mould. The time of going is about 5 - 6 hours.

Camp (5800 ms) - Camp (6100 ms). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the “two-headed” summit. Crevasses are possible. Going in roped-party. Traverse to the left after coming out to the top with descent to Pamir Big Plateau. Time of going is 4 hours.

Camp (6900 ms) - northern ice-snow slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Very big amount of crevasses. Snowy ascent is very steep . Going in roped-party. There is a danger of snow-slip descent. Ascent is not technically difficult. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 ms.) descent to the camp (6900ms.) Time of going is 7-8 hours.

Camp (6900 ms) - summit - back to camp ( 6900 ms) (8-9 hs). Very early start. Moving is in roped-party along steep snowy slope to the rocks. The ropes are fastened in the rocks. After rocks moving to “Somoni” (Kommunizm)Peak along crest. Strong wind is possible. While descent one should pay attention to the snowy slope after rocks. At this part of itinerary mountain climber’s falls are observed. In case of bad weather it is necessary to have marked flags for establishing on the way of itinerary.