KORJENEVSKAYA PEAK
 Korjenevskaya
Peak is situated in the northern side of the range named after Academy
of Science, 13 km. far from Communism peak. The top was discovered
by N.Korjenevskiy in 23 August 1910 and was called by the name Evgeniya
(his wife’s name). Since 1927 name Korjenevskaya peak appeared officially
on geographical maps.
The first ascent to the peak was in 22 August 1953. The group consisted
of 8 alpinists from Leningrad under the leading of A.Ugarov reached
the top from the North from Korjenevskaya glacier along the Northern
range.
Now there are about 10 different complexity grade routes on the top.
The simplest, popular and safe way - along North ridge from the Korzhenevski
glacier.
1936 – the first attempt of ascent made A.Djaparidze and N.Gusok.
They reached the top 6200m.
1937 – D.Guschin + 3 persons reached the top 6 960 m. The next expedition
was organized just in 1953.
At the beginning of July 30 mountain climbers from Leningrad began
the delivery of expedition cargo to the foot of the peak. The difficulties
with wireless communication between the groups, the absence of bridges
over the tempestuous rivers delayed the delivery of cargo for 3
weeks. Base camp on height of 2650 m was organized just in 31st
of July. Intervening bases: I-4400, II-5600, III-6100m were organizing
during the prospecting of the group’s itinerary. A. Belezkiy – the
leader of the expedition fell ill and had to descend to the base
camp from 6100m in 12th of August. The leader of the group became
A.Ugarov. The assault of the peak began in 17th of August.
Camp IV-6500m (on summit range) and then camp V-6800m was established
in 20th of August. Two members of the team left the camp V at 11:00
and reached the top at 15:00 in 22nd of August. In 30 minutes another
6 members came to. The descent to the base camp took 3 days, as
it was in bad weather conditions. 8 mountain climbers – A. Ugarov,
A.Goneev, L.Krasavin, P.Skorobogatov, B.Dmitriev, A.Kovyrnov, E.Ryspaev,
R.Semidjanov reached the top.
In 1986 – was the fist winter ascending (mountain climbers from
Leningrad).
In 1997 – was the first flight by paraplane (V. Bojukov) from the
top.
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