MUZTAG ATA PEAK
Muztagh
Ata (7546 m.) is the second summit of Tian-Shan according to the altitude
and situated in Kun-Lun range on the territory of Sinzyan national
region in China. In local languages “ Muztagh Ata ” means “Ice Mountain`s
Father “. The huge snow mountain-mass raised above the Karakul Lake
attracts the mountaineers of the whole world. The climbing way on
the top is not difficult technically with the slopes of 25-30 degrees
steepness though demands a high physical level of the alpinists. It
gives good possibilities to ascent to the top. Muztagh Ata is one
of the perfect mountains for skiing after ascent. First ascents of
the Muztag Ata summit had been made in 1956 by China - Soviet expedition.
Iitinerary:
| Day
1 |
Arrival into Bishkek, the capital
of Kyrgyzstan. Hotel. |
| Day 2 |
Transfer to Naryn. 10-12 hours; night in yurts. |
| Day 3 |
Drive to the Torugart Pass, 3-4 hours; crossing
the Kirghizstan-China border; drive to Kashgar, 3 hours; night
in a hotel. |
| Day 4 |
Drive to Karakul Lake and then to Subashi, 4-5 hours; walk
with pack-camels to the Muztagh-Ata Base Camp (BC, 4450m), 3-4
hours. |
| Day 5 |
Acclimatization walks around the Base Camp
area. |
| Day 6-19 |
Ascent to Muztag - Ata. |
| Day 20-21 |
Reserve days for bad weather. |
| Day 22 |
Base Camp - Subashi - Kashgar, night in hotel. |
| Day 23 |
Day in Kashgar, excursions, shopping. |
| Day 24 |
Drive Kashgar - Torugart Pass, crossing the border, arrival
to Tash-Rabat, night in yurt. |
| Day 25 |
Drive Tash-Rabat - Bishkek, night in hotel.
|
| Day 26 |
Transfer hotel - airport, departure from
Bishkek. |
Description of the ascent routes:
Section 1. Base Camp ( 4450 m ) - Camp 5200 m.
Walking on a good path on the edge of a rocky ridge. Above 5000m
the ridge may be covered by snow. Starting with a small campsite
at 4800 m the ascent may be continued by ski in a large snow couloir
on the right.
Section 2. Camp 5200m - Camp 6200 m. Ascent on
a snow slope up to a small plateau at 5400m. Then turn left to a
snow/ice crest. On the left side of the crest up to the altitude
of 5600m. Here a zone of big crevasses begins. Cross the zone following
a big snow gully in its middle part and then continue the ascent
on a steep snow slope up to a wide snow ridge on altitude close
to 6000m. Turn left and go along the ridge to a small snow basin
on 6200m.
Section 3. Camp 6200m - Camp 6800 m. On right
slope of the basin and then on wide and not steep snow fields with
several rises.
Section 4. Camp 6800m - Summit (7546m)Ascent on
wide snow slopes.
|