PEAK KHAN-TENGRI
 Peak Khan-Tengri
(7010 m.) is one of the highest peak in Tien-Shan massive situated
in eastern part of the Khan-Tengri range. The peak is 7010 meters
high. The pyramid shape of the peak is fascinating and consists of
pink and gray marble attracted the attention of people from the ancient
time. Only a few peaks has names kept from the antic times till present.
Among them are Olimp, Fudziama, Vezuviy, Demavend and Elbrus. The
peak Khan-Tengri can be ranked with them. Only from 1989 the area
of Khan-Tengri Peak was opened for foreign tourists and climbers.s
Approaches: It is possible to reach peaks Khan-Tengri (7010 m.)
and Pobeda (7439 m.) from Almaty (the capital of Kazakhstan) and
Bishkek (the capital of Kyrghyzstan) which has large international
airports. Further we have to go by truck to the camps Maidadir and
Karkara and then continue by helicopter to the glaciers South and
North Inichelek.
Historical background:
1857 - Russian explorer P.Semenov-Tien-Shanskiy described the region
for the first time.
1903 - Austrian professor G. Mertzbacher has reached the Inylchek
glacier and metered height of Khan-Tengri peak for the first time.
1929 - 31 - Ukrain explorer M. Pogrebeckiy organized few sucsessful
expeditions and in result tree peoples has climbed the peak Khan-Tengri
from the south.
1964 - Crew of Russian climbers with K. Kuzmin in charge climbed
the peak Khan-Tengri from the north for the first time.
Ascending routes:
At the present moment there are more than 10 routes to the peak
Khan-Tengri. These routes are clearly divided into two ways: climbing
from the South Inichelek and from the North Inichelek. The route
N 1 "on marble rib" is the most popular and starts from
the glacier Semenovskiy. This route is under constant observation
of rescue team.
Tourism potential: Except world-known peaks Khan-Tengri and Pobeda
there are more than 30 summits of 6000 meters and plenty of summits
starting from 4000 up to 6000 meters in the uppers of glaciers Ujniy
and North Inichelek. Ascending routes on these above mentioned peaks
can be varied from the most easiest and up to the most complicated.
Near the peaks Khan-Tengri and Pobeda there are some summits which
nobody has ever climbed. Mountainous trips in this area are limited
because of difficult passes between valleys. Trek on adirtorskim
sirtam (high flat hills of the valley) to the glacier Inichelek
and further to the base camp Inichelek is the one of the most popular.
From the base camp we enjoy the beauty of the marble pyramidal peak
Khan-Tengri and the most northern seven thousand peak Pobeda.
Iitinerary:
| Day
1-2 |
Arrive in Almaty (Tashkent).
Transfer from Almaty (Tashkent) to Bishkek. Trip to Karakol
(400 km). Overnight on the shore of the Issyk-Kul Lake. Chalet
accommodation (1600m). |
| Day 3 |
Trip to Maidadir base (200 km), located in the valley of Inylchek
river (alt-2500m.) |
| Day 4 |
Acclimatization |
| Day 5 |
Flight (45 min) to the high-altitude base Inylchek (alt-4100m). |
| Day 6 |
Medical examination, route consultation,
preparation for the ascent. |
| Day 7 |
You are offered a classical route along the western ridge.
Traverse South Inylchek towards Khan-Tengri peak; in 7 km pitch
camp on the right-lateral moraine. |
| Day 8 |
Ascent along Semenovsky Glacier to the bulkhead
(altd-5900 m) between Chapaev and Khan-Tengri Peaks. Pitch camp
1 (dig a cave or pitch a tent). |
| Day 9 |
Acclimatization. |
| Day 10 |
Start to go down to the Glacier towards
base-camp early in the morning. |
| Day 11-13 |
Rest. Preparation for the ascent. |
| Day 14-15 |
Ascent to the camp 2 (6300 m). |
| Day 16 |
Ascent to the camp 3 (6700 m). |
| Day 17-18 |
Descent to the base-camp. |
| Day 19 |
Flight to the base-camp Maidadir. |
| Day
20-21 |
2 spare days in case of foul weather. If
this days will not used you can rest in the Issyk-Kul Lake. |
| Day 22 |
Trip to Bishkek (Almaty). |
| Day
23 |
Trip (fly) to Tashkent or sightseeing of
Bishkek (Almaty). |
| Day 24 |
Return home. |
The Tactic of ascent
It possible to carry out ascent from South Inilchek and North Inilchek.
South variant starts from the base camp. North variant from North
camp. After the first scent in 1931 (M. Pogrebezki), climbers have
used more than 10 difficult routes from all four sides. But not
all new routes have been exhausted yet. The program includes an
ascent on the classical, safest route-on the west edge from theemenovski
glacier. The necessary help will be given to those who has any difficulty.
The usual tactics which is used on the classical route from south:
- 6 km crossing of the South Inylchek glacier, ascending 200 m to
"Shubin's stop" bivouac ( 4300 m);
- along the narrow and steep Semenovski glacier you should ascend
to the upper mould and at the altitude of 5800 m under the west
column pitch camp 2. After 2 nights and 6200-6500m ascent you should
descend to the base camp. After the rest day are 1-2 days of ascent
to the camp 1 with the new baggage for high altitude camps. It is
necessary to start early in the morning in order to avoid avalanches
that are more probable in the middle of day. Reach the altitude
of 6300-6400 m and pitch camp 2;
- Ascent 300 m and pitch camp 3 under the summit at the altitude
of 6700 m;
- During the day you should reach the summit and descent to the
camp 3. The way from the seds goes on rocks with good ledges and
on snow and ice fields. It is recommend to hang up the fixed roups
on the most dangerous places (about 280m);
- Descent to the camp 2 and then to the camp 1;
- Descent to the base camp. |
